In this article, we will consider replacing the release bearing and clutch fork, as well as replacing the clutch master cylinder
In the previous article, we looked at replacing clutch discs
Replacing the bearing and the clutch release fork
If there is increased noise when you press the clutch pedal with the engine running, then most likely the defect is due to the failure of the release bearing
The bearing "A" of the clutch release assembly with the clutch is mounted on the guide sleeve and connected to the fork "B"
The fork with its trunnions is inserted all the way into the grooves of the bearing clutch and rests on a ball bearing screwed into the clutch housing.
The fork is fixed by a corrugated rubber boot, which is inserted into the window of the clutch housing
Remove the gearbox
Move the clutch bearing forward along the guide sleeve
Remove the plug from the grooves of the bearing coupling and remove the bearing
Pry off the retainer of the fork on the ball joint with a screwdriver and disengage the ends of the retainer from engagement with the clutch release fork
Remove the clutch release fork from the clutch housing
If necessary, remove the dirt cover
The rubber boot can be replaced without removing the clutch fork.
To do this, pry the edge of the cover with your finger and take it out
Lubricate with a thin layer of grease the outer surface of the guide sleeve, the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox, the ball bearing of the clutch fork
Lubricate the surfaces of the fork in contact with the ball joint
Lubricate the surfaces of the fork in contact with the clutch
Install the clutch release fork, mudguard and new release bearing assembly with clutch.
Replacing the clutch master cylinder
To work, you will need tools: a key for 10, 12, a container for draining brake fluid
Special wrench for pipeline nuts
Opening the master cylinder reservoir
Remove the battery
Remove the engine control unit assembly with the bracket
Using pliers we compress the bent ears of the clamp for fastening the hose for supplying the working fluid from the reservoir of the main brake cylinder
Slide the clamp along the hose
Disconnect the hose from the fitting of the master brake cylinder reservoir and drain the brake fluid into the prepared container
The tank is divided into three separate sections, two for the brakes and one section for the clutch
Remove the spring retainer by prying with a screwdriver
Remove the tip of the tube
The connection of the tubes to the master cylinder is sealed with a rubber ring
Replace these rings each time you disconnect
We compress the bent ears of the clamp for fastening the hose for supplying the working fluid to the master cylinder of the clutch release drive
And slide the clamp along the hose
Disconnect the hose from the coupling of the clutch master cylinder and remove it
Further operations are shown on removed nodes
In the car interior, under the instrument panel, we pry the retainer
Remove it from the hole of the axis of attachment of the tip of the rod of the master cylinder of the clutch release
Remove the washer
Pry off the stem tip with a screwdriver
And remove the tip of the rod of the master cylinder of the clutch release drive from the pedal axis
We unscrew the three nuts securing the clutch master cylinder to the pedal bracket and remove them
Remove the clutch master cylinder from the engine compartment
Install all the parts in reverse order and pump the clutch
Replacing the working clutch of the clutch release actuator
Usually, the clutch slave cylinder is replaced when the clutch is not fully disengaged, most often this occurs when the sealing cuffs that are in the cylinder are worn, as a result of which a working fluid leak appears.
Unscrew the bolt fitting
We take it away from the working cylinder. We muffle the fitting hole so that the brake fluid does not flow out
Two copper washers are mounted on the fitting
When assembling, we replace the washers with new ones
We unscrew the two bolts securing the slave cylinder to the clutch housing
Remove the slave cylinder
Install all the parts in the reverse order and bleed the clutch
Replacing the clutch hydraulic hose and tube
Unscrew the nut that secures the tube to the hose end
We take the tube aside and turn it off so that the liquid does not flow out
Pour the liquid into the prepared container
Pry off the fixing bracket with a screwdriver
Remove the fixing bracket
Remove the hose tip from the bracket
Also disconnect the second hose end and remove it
To replace the hydraulic drive tube, unscrew the nut that fastens it to the fitting of the working cylinder
And disconnect the handset
Install parts in reverse order
Removing and installing the clutch pedal
We remove the clutch pedal to eliminate play when the plastic bushings are worn, or if other defects appear.
We press the latches and disconnect the wire block from the clutch pedal start sensor
We press the lock with a screwdriver and disconnect the shoe from the pedal end travel sensor
In the car, under the instrument panel, pry off the spring clip with a screwdriver
Remove it from the hole of the axis of attachment of the tip of the rod of the master cylinder of the clutch release
Remove the washer
Pry off the stem tip with a screwdriver
Remove the rod end of the clutch release master cylinder from the pedal axis
Unscrew the four nuts securing the clutch pedal to the body
Remove the clutch pedal
We disengage the bent end of the return spring from engagement with the clutch pedal
We press the clamps of the fastening of the clutch pedal wiring harness block and disconnect the block from the clutch pedal bracket
Unscrew the nut that secures the clutch pedal end travel sensor
Remove the sensor
We also remove the clutch pedal start sensor
We unscrew the nut securing the clutch pedal axle, holding the axle from turning with the second key
Remove the axle from the holes of the pedal and bracket
Remove the return spring from the pedal
Remove the spacer
Remove the plastic bushings from the pedal holes
Lubricate the axle and bushings with grease and assemble in the reverse order