Main main gear malfunctions:
- The bearings of the rear axle gearbox are worn out, their preload is broken, the landing is weakened (uniform noise from the rear axle)
- The teeth of the gears of the main gear are worn out, the lateral clearance in the engagement is broken, the scuffs on the teeth are a howl from the side of the rear axle, which decreases or disappears when the load is reduced (the gas pedal is released)
It is more convenient to work on the inspection ditch together.
Drain the oil from the rear axle gearbox.
Disconnect the driveline from the rear axle.
We clean the main gear housing from dirt.
We take out the axle shafts on both sides of the car.
With a key or a “14” head, we unscrew ten bolts securing the gearbox to the rear axle beam.
We remove the gearbox from the beam, while trying not to damage the gasket.
For the convenience of work, we install the gearbox on the stand.
Remove the drive gear flange with the cuff.
With a punch, we mark the relative position of the differential bearing caps and their nuts, as well as the caps themselves relative to the crankcase.
Remove the drive gear flange with the cuff. Using the “12” key, we unscrew the bolts of the locking plates
Remove the locking plates.
Using a key or a “17” head, unscrew the bearing cap bolts
Remove the cover. We also remove the second cover
With a special wrench or a large screwdriver, unscrew the adjusting nuts of the bearings
remove the adjusting nuts.
Remove the box of satellites with the driven gear.
If the bearings are not replaced, we mark their outer rings in order to install them in their original places during assembly
The driven gear is mounted on the pinion box in only one position, therefore, to simplify assembly, we mark the relative position of the gear and the housing.
With a key or a “17” head, we unscrew 10 gear mounting bolts
With light blows of a hammer through a soft metal drift, we knock the gear off the satellite box and remove it
For puller legsand the satellite box has special recesses
Installing a special puller
Use a puller to remove the inner races of the bearings. Remove the second bearing in the same way
In the absence of a puller, insert a chisel between the end of the inner ring of the bearing and the differential box.
By striking the chisel, we move the inner ring of the bearing
Insert two powerful screwdrivers (or mounting blades) into the resulting gap
Compress the inner ring of the bearing with the cage and rollers
With a center punch we mark the relative position of the parts of the differential box and the axes of the satellites
Using the “13” key, we unscrew the eight bolts connecting the parts of the differential box
Carefully tapping with a hammer through a soft drift, we separate the box
We take out the side gear from the removed half of the box
Remove the support washer
We take out the axles together with the satellites and their washers
Remove satellites and washers from axles
Remove the second side gear
Remove the support washer
We remove the drive gear from the gearbox housing (it can be knocked out with hammer blows through a soft metal spacer on the end of the shaft) and the inner ring of the front bearing
Remove the spacer
Spres poke the inner ring of the rear bearing from the gear shank
Remove the drive gear adjusting ring
With a drift we knock out the outer ring of the front bearing
Take out the ring
We also knock out the outer ring of the rear bearing.
Before assembling, we wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel and inspect them.
Any cracks are unacceptable on the parts. Gear teeth should be free of scuffing, chipping and heavy wear.
The bearings should rotate easily without clicking or binding.
On rollers and rings, chipping, chips and heavy wear are unacceptable.
Bearing cages must not be torn or deformed.
We replace damaged and worn parts. In any case, after a run of more than 100 thousand km, we recommend replacing the bearings, regardless of their condition.