Automatic transmission disassembly should be carried out in a dust-free area.
When disassembling, inspect the components for wear and damage.
Use only plastic hammers to separate the crankcase parts.
Do not use rags during disassembly: the fibers may clog the fluid passages.
Some components are similar, so arrange them carefully during disassembly to avoid confusion.
If the clutch or brake band is burnt or the fluid quality in the transmission has deteriorated, it is essential to clean the valve block.
Before disassembling, clean the outer surface of the transmission with a cleaner or solvent.
Clean the removed components with solvent and dry them with compressed air.
Install the transmission on a special stand or Workbench.
Remove the bolts securing the clutch housing to the transmission housing (Fig. 1)
Disconnecting the gearbox housing (Fig. 2)
Removing the magnet from the automatic transmission filter (Fig. 3)
Unscrew the pump (Fig. 4)
Remove the pump and separate the filter from it (Fig. 5)
Disassemble the pump, remembering the position of the parts, and determine their wear (Fig. 6)
Remove the gearbox housing gasket (Fig. 7)
Removing the differential (Fig. 8)
Removing the parking lever (parking pawl) (Fig. 9)
Using thin pliers, remove the band brake servo piston (Fig. 10)
Removing the first and second gear brake bands (Fig. 11)
Removing the first and second gear drums (Fig. 12)
Removing the secondary shaft (idler gear) (Fig. 13)
Turn the transmission over and unscrew the valve body pan mounting screws (Fig. 14)
Remove the valve body pan and inspect the magnets for shavings (Fig. 15)
Unscrew the valve body mounting screws (Fig. 16)
Remove the valve body plate, the valve body itself (Fig. 17), and the sealing gaskets.
Examine all foreign inclusions and particles found in the oil pan and on the magnet to determine the condition of the transmission components.
The presence of clutch wear particles indicates wear of the drive plate or brake bands.
Steel particles on the magnet indicate wear of the bearings, gears, or the plate. Drive.
The presence of aluminum particles indicates wear on the bushings or gearbox housing.
If there are a large number of foreign inclusions and particles, replace the torque converter and carefully inspect the condition of the gearbox components.
Unscrew the rear gearbox cover (Fig. 18)
Removing the fourth gear piston (Fig. 19)
Removing the rear cover gasket (Fig. 20)
Removing the input shaft (Fig. 21)
Removing the clutch pack for second, third, and fourth gears (Fig. 22)
Removing the small sun gear and one-way clutch (HUC) (Fig. 23)
Removing the fourth gear clutch pack (Fig. 24)
Helpful tips:
If the drive plate or brake band is replaced with new ones, soak the new part in automatic transmission fluid for at least two hours before installation.
Before assembly, lubricate all oil seals, rotating parts, O-rings, and moving parts with automatic transmission fluid.
All O-rings, oil seals, and gaskets must be replaced with new ones.
When reassembling, use petroleum jelly, but do not lubricate with grease.
When a bushing needs to be replaced, replace the part (assembly) containing the same bushing.
After applying the sealant, assembly must be completed within 10 minutes and allowed to stand for 30 minutes before filling with automatic transmission fluid.
Next, we need to remove the reverse gear servo piston.
To do this, press the wooden handle of a hammer against the servo piston and use pliers to compress the retaining ring (Fig. 25).
Removing the servo piston from the gearbox housing (Fig. 26)
Removing the reverse brake band (Fig. 27)
Remove the drum with the planetary gear block (Fig. 28)
After this, all parts are washed and inspected.
We'll cover gearbox assembly in the next article.