Dismantling the gearbox of the car Gazelle Next

Before starting to strip the gearbox, prepare your workplace. You will need: a set of ring and socket spanners (10, 12, 13, 22 mm), screwdrivers (flat and cross-head), a copper or polyurethane mallet, circlip pliers, mandrels for pressing in oil seals. Be sure to use clean rags and a container for collecting oil residues.

We remove the gearbox as described in the article: Removing and installing the gearbox.

Dirty GAZelle Next gearbox on the workbench — We clean the gearbox of dirt and wash it on the outside before starting work.

Removing the reverse sensor with a spanner — We unscrew the reverse light switch together with its sealing gasket.

10 mm spanner unscrews the speed sensor bolt — Using a 10 mm spanner, we unscrew the bolt securing the clamp plate of the speed sensor.

Removing the speedometer drive plate — We remove the retaining plate of the speedometer drive.

The speed sensor is unscrewed with a 22 mm spanner — Turning with a 22 mm spanner on the body, we begin to extract the drive from the crankcase.

Speedometer drive assembly — We fully extract the speedometer drive from the gearbox crankcase.

Removing the front cover elements — We remove the sleeve with the release bearing and the foam sealing rings from the front cover.

Three cover securing bolts are unscrewed with a 12 mm spanner — Using a “12” spanner, we unscrew the three bolts securing the bearing cover (they are fitted with sealant).

Removed cover with old gasket — We carefully remove the cover together with the old gasket.

Oil drain channel in the bearing cover — During subsequent installation, pay attention to the alignment of the oil drain channel in the cover and the hole in the crankcase.

Prising out the old oil seal with a flat screwdriver — Prising with a screwdriver, we extract the input shaft oil seal from the cover (during repair, all oil seals are replaced with new ones regardless of their condition).

Installing the new oil seal using a mandrel — Using a mandrel or a suitable diameter socket, we carefully press in the new oil seal until it is fully seated.

The sleeve securing bolt is unscrewed with a 13 mm spanner — Using a “13” spanner, we unscrew and remove the bolt securing the axle sleeve of the reverse gear to the front crankcase.

Removing the circlip with a thin screwdriver — Using a thin screwdriver or circlip pliers, we prise off and remove the circlip of the input shaft bearing.

Removing the gearbox breather with a 12 mm spanner — Using a 12 mm spanner, we unscrew and remove the gearbox breather.

Ten crankcase connecting bolts are unscrewed with a 12 mm spanner — Using a “12” spanner, we unscrew the ten bolts connecting the front and rear crankcases (two bolts passing through the locating sleeves are longer than the others).

Separating the crankcases with a mallet via a brass mandrel — Gently tapping with a mallet via a brass mandrel, we separate the crankcases. It is forbidden to strike the end face of the input shaft so as not to damage the synchronisers.

Removing the old gasket between the crankcases — We separate the crankcases and carefully, trying not to damage it, remove the inter-crankcase sealing gasket.

Removing the shims from the bearing bore — We remove the adjusting shims from the bore under the intermediate shaft bearing (if any). The axial clearance is also adjusted by the inter-crankcase gasket.

Turning the shaft to lock the shafts — Turning the input shaft, we engage reverse gear (we push forward the 5th and reverse gear shift rod) to lock the shafts during stripping.

10 mm spanner unscrews the fork locking bolts — Using a “10” spanner, we unscrew the locking bolts securing the three gearshift forks to the shift rods.

Four lever housing securing bolts are unscrewed with a 12 mm spanner — Using a “12” spanner, we unscrew the four bolts securing the gearshift lever housing.

Removed lever housing with sealing gasket — We remove the gearshift lever housing together with the sealing gasket.

Securing bolts of the shift rod detent plate — Using a “12” spanner, we unscrew the two bolts securing the shift rod detent plate.

Removed plate with gasket — We remove the detent plate together with the gasket.

Components of the gearshift rod detents — We remove three springs and three balls of the gear engagement detents (it is convenient to use a magnetised screwdriver or turn the gearbox over).

Removing the gearshift rods together with the forks — We remove the I–II gear rod (we immediately fit the fork onto it and secure it with a bolt so as not to mix it up during assembly). Then we remove the 5th and reverse gear rod with the corresponding fork.

Removing the central gearshift rod — We remove the III–IV gear rod.

Removing the pin from the shift rod — From the rod we extract the interlock pin.

Paper tubes inserted into the rod holes — So that the interlock plungers do not fall out, we insert tubes rolled from thick paper into the holes of the rods.

The reverse gear axle securing bolt is unscrewed with a 13 mm spanner — Using a “13” spanner, we unscrew the bolt securing the reverse gear axle to the rear crankcase.

Pliers spread the lugs of the bearing circlip — With pliers we spread the lugs of the circlip of the rear bearing of the output shaft.

Removing the shafts and reverse axle from the crankcase — Tapping with a copper mallet on the rear end of the output shaft, we remove the shaft assembly together with the axle and reverse gear, after which we separate the input and output shafts.

Removing the synchroniser and front support rollers — We remove the IV gear synchroniser and extract the 14 rollers of the front support of the output shaft. Lay out the parts in the order of removal to facilitate subsequent assembly.

Spreading the circlip with two thin screwdrivers — With two thin screwdrivers or special pliers, we spread and remove the circlip from the input shaft.

Removing the shaft spring ring — We remove the spring ring.

The puller removes the bearing from the input shaft — With a drift, two mounting levers or a special puller, we press off the input shaft bearing.

Removing the bearings from the intermediate shaft — In a similar way, we remove both bearings from the intermediate shaft.

The shaft is clamped in the vice through soft pads — Having installed the output shaft vertically in the vice through soft pads, we remove the lower circlip.

Removing the ring of the III-IV sleeve hub — We remove the spring ring of the hub of the III–IV gear engagement sleeve.

Removing the sleeve together with the sliders and springs — We remove the sleeve together with the sliders and springs of the synchroniser. It is better not to dismantle this assembly, but if necessary, mark the relative position of the parts. The sleeves are not symmetrical and are installed in only one position.

Removing the bronze blocking ring — We remove the synchroniser blocking ring.

Removing the gear together with the plastic cage and rollers — We remove the III gear together with the plastic cage and rollers.

Prising the ring with a flat screwdriver — With a screwdriver we prise off and remove the next circlip.

Removing two thrust half-rings of the output shaft — We remove the two thrust half-rings of the output shaft.

A magnetised screwdriver removes a small ball — With a magnetised screwdriver we extract the small locking ball of the half-rings.

Removing the second gear together with the needle bearing — We remove the II gear together with the needle bearing.

Removing the bronze blocking ring of the second gear — We remove the blocking ring of the II gear synchroniser.

Removing the shaft circlip — We remove the circlip.

Removing the first and second gear engagement sleeve — We remove the I–II gear engagement sleeve.

Removing the first gear synchroniser ring — We remove the blocking ring of the I gear synchroniser.

Removing the first gear together with the bearing — We remove the I gear together with the needle bearing. We carry out further dismantling from the other end of the shaft.

Prising the ring with a thin screwdriver — Prising with a thin screwdriver, we remove the circlip from the rear end of the output shaft.

Removing the speedometer drive spring ring — We remove the spring ring.

Removing the gear and extracting the locking ball — We remove the speedometer drive gear and extract its locking ball.

Rear bearing prepared for removal — Preparation for removing the rear bearing of the output shaft.

The puller removes the rear bearing of the output shaft — With two mounting levers or a special puller, we remove the rear bearing of the output shaft.

Removing the shaft thrust washer — We remove the thrust washer.

Pliers extract the securing pin — With pliers we extract the securing pin.

Removing the fifth gear together with the bearing — We remove the V gear together with the bearing and synchroniser.

Removing the spacer adjusting ring — We remove the spacer adjusting ring.

Sleeve before removing the spring ring — Preparation for removing the V and reverse gear sleeve.

Special pliers remove the spring ring — With special pliers and screwdrivers we remove the spring ring.

Removing the synchroniser sleeve — We remove the V and reverse gear engagement sleeve.

Removing the blocking ring — We remove the synchroniser blocking ring.

Removing the reverse gear together with the needle bearing — We remove the reverse gear together with the needle bearing.

We extract two oil seals from the rear crankcase extension.

For assembly and fault diagnosis of the gearbox, see the following article: Fault diagnosis and assembly of the gearbox.