The generator is designed to generate electricity while the engine is running
The car is equipped with a three-phase alternator with electromagnetic excitation, a diode rectifier unit and with a built-in voltage regulator.
The generator is driven by a poly V-belt for the drive of auxiliary units from the crankshaft pulley.
The generator consists of a rotor, a stator, a rectifier unit, a brush assembly with a voltage regulator and two covers.
A pulley is installed on the rotor shaft. To cool the generator parts, ventilation holes are made in its covers, and an impeller is made on the rotor from the side of the front cover.
The stator has a three-phase star-connected winding.
The winding leads are soldered to the rectifier unit.
The rectifier unit is installed under the generator casing together with the brush assembly and voltage regulator.
An excitation winding is made in the rotor, the leads of which are soldered to two slip rings.
The rotor shaft of the generator rotates on two ball bearings.
The front bearing is pressed into the front cover of the generator, and the rear one is pressed onto the rotor shaft and is held on the rear cover of the generator.
The voltage regulator is non-contact, electronic, combined with a brush assembly in a common non-separable body. Brushes - carbon, spring-loaded.
The model of the generator with which the vehicle is equipped depends on the type of engine installed.
For the K4M engine, the generator model is Valeo TG11C063 8200667607 110A
For the F4R 2.0 engine, the generator model is Valeo TG12C092 231007562R 140A
If the battery charge indicator lamp on the instrument panel lights up, do not rush to immediately remove the generator for repair or replacement.
First, make sure that the malfunction is caused by the failure of the generator itself, and not the wires of its electrical circuit or a loosening of the drive belt tension.
Diagnostics of malfunctions of the generator
To carry out the work, you will need a multimeter (in voltmeter mode with a measurement range of 15-20 V) and a technical stethoscope.
It is convenient to work with an assistant.
We prepare the car for maintenance and repair.
Checking the condition of the accessory drive belt
The wear of the drive belt will cause it to slip on the pulley and prevent the generator from delivering the required power.
Indirectly, belt slippage can be determined by the dim glow of the headlights in the dark and by the whistling sound in the front of the engine when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply.
We start the engine and observe the battery charge indicator lamp on the instrument panel (it should light up when the ignition is turned on and go out after starting the engine).
If the battery charge indicator lamp does not go out after starting the engine, check the supply of +12 V voltage to the generator field winding.
To do this, disconnect the wire block from terminal 4 (Figure 1) of the generator and measure the voltage across it with a multimeter in voltmeter mode.
If there is no voltage, it is necessary to check the power supply circuit, protection and switching unit in accordance with the car's electrical circuit diagram.
We warm up the engine to operating temperature (at least 80˚C).
We turn on all powerful consumers of the car's electricity: heated rear window, air conditioning fan, high beam headlights.
The assistant, pressing the gas pedal and monitoring the engine by the tachometer, maintains the engine crankshaft speed within 3000-3500 min -1.
If there is no assistant, you can connect the multimeter to the battery using two pieces of wires. The length of the wires must be sufficient to allow the device to be positioned in the passenger compartment.
With a multimeter in voltmeter mode, we measure the voltage at the terminals of the battery.
With a working generator, the voltmeter should show a voltage of at least 14 V.
If the voltage is less, it is possible that the accessory drive belt is worn out, the generator circuit is faulty, the voltage regulator is faulty, the brushes in the generator are oiled or worn out, or the generator itself is faulty.
A malfunction of the generator can be caused by poor electrical contact in the connections due to the formed oxides.
We disconnect the tip and the block of the wire from the generator (see below) and treat them with a cleaning agent and protecting electrical contacts.
Removal and installation of the generator
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
Remove the front bumper (article - Removing and installing bumpers Renault Duster)
We remove the accessory drive belt and the support roller (article - Checking and replacing the Renault Duster accessory belt)
Using a 10 head, unscrew the nut that secures the air conditioner tube holders on the mudguard of the engine compartment
With a 10 head, unscrew the nut that secures the air conditioner tube holders on the mudguard cup
Removing the tube holders from the studs
We unscrew the two bolts securing the power steering radiator
Remove the radiator deflector
We take out the retainer of the upper support of the fan casing
Pressing the sleeve of the upper support of the fan casing with your hand from below, press the four retainers of the sleeve with a screwdriver
We take out the bushing from the hole in the upper cross member of the radiator frame.
We also take out the other bushing of the upper support of the fan casing.
Having lifted the fan, we remove the lower supports of the fan casing from the holes in the subframe and, sliding the radiator forward along the direction of the car, place the lower supports of the fan casing on the subframe.
Disconnecting the wiring block from the air conditioner compressor connector and unscrewing its mounting bolts, take the compressor to the side and place it on the subframe (the arrow shows the lower support of the fan casing).
With the head 10, unscrew the lower bolt of the generator mounting
We take out the bolt
With a 13 head, unscrew the nut securing the wire end
Remove the tip of the wire from the generator output
Use a screwdriver to wring out the clamp of the wiring block
Disconnect the block from the generator connector
With a 10 head, unscrew the upper bolt of the generator mounting
We take out the bolt
We squeeze the generator with a mounting blade in order to remove the threaded bushings of the generator from the bracket
We take out the generator from the engine compartment
Prying off the generator casing with a screwdriver from three pins
Remove the casing (arrows show the casing fastening studs)
With a 7 head, unscrew the hairpin and two bolts of the brush holder for the hexagon
Remove the brush holder with voltage regulator assembly
To check the voltage regulator, we connect a lamp (1-3 W, 12 V) to the brushes, and a direct current source to the brush holder terminals, first with a voltage of 12 V, and then 15-16 V.
In the first case, the lamp should be on, in the second - not.
If the lamp is on in both cases - there is a breakdown in the regulator, if it is not lit - there is an open or broken contact between the terminals of the voltage regulator and the brushes.
In both cases, the brush holder with voltage regulator must be replaced.
To check for a break in the rotor winding, we connect the probes of the digital tester (in ohmmeter mode) to the slip rings
If the tester shows infinity, then there is an open circuit in the winding.
To check the short circuit of the rotor winding to ground, we connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the slip ring and the generator case.
The tester should show infinity, otherwise the winding is shorted to ground. In both cases, the rotor or generator must be replaced.
We inspect the stator windings; there should be no traces of overheating on the insulation of the windings, which is a consequence of a short circuit in the valves of the rectifier unit.
If the windings show signs of overheating, the stator or generator must be replaced.
To check for a break in the stator windings, we connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the winding terminals.
If the tester shows infinity, then there is an open circuit in the winding and you need to replace the stator or generator.
We also check the rest of the stator windings.
To check the short circuit of the stator winding to ground, we connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the winding terminal and the generator case.
The tester should show infinity, otherwise the winding is shorted to ground and the stator or generator must be replaced. We also check the rest of the windings.
To check the diodes of the rectifier unit, we connect the plus of the digital tester (in the diode test mode) to the “B +” terminal of the generator, and the minus to its body.
The tester should show infinity. Otherwise, both the positive and negative diode blocks are short-circuited.
To check the short circuit in the positive diodes, the plus of the tester (in the diode test mode) is connected to the “B +” terminal of the generator, and the minus to the terminal of one of the phase stator windings.
The tester should show infinity.
If the tester indicates a circuit is present, one or more positive diodes are punctured.
To check the short circuit in the negative diodes, the plus of the tester (in the diode test mode) is connected to the output of one of the phase stator windings, and the minus to the generator case.
The tester should show infinity.
If the tester shows a circuit, one or more negative valves are punctured.
Before installing the brush holder, we recessed the brushes and, sliding the cover of the brushes, fix the brushes.
We install the brush holder in place, twist and tighten the bolts and the stud for fastening the brush holder.
By pressing the cover, we release the brushes, which, under the action of the springs, will move to the slip rings.
We put the generator casing in place.
Before installing the generator, move the threaded bushings towards the generator casing by 2-4 mm.
To do this, resting the hammer on the generator eyelet, screw the generator mounting bolt into the bushing until it stops in the hammer and, rotating the head by 10 bolts, move the bushing. We also move the other threaded bushing.
Install the generator in reverse order.
To repair the generator, you will need 7, 10, 27 keys, a TORX T50 key, a tester, a puller, a hammer, and screwdrivers.
Keeping the shaft from turning, unscrew the pulley fastening nut. Remove the pulley and spacer ring
We mark with a marker the relative position of the covers and the stator housing
Pry off the edge of the casing with a slotted screwdriver
Remove the cover
We unscrew the two bolts of the brush holder
We unscrew the nut of the brush holder
Remove the brush holder assembly with a voltage regulator
Check the protrusion of the brushes. If dimension "A" is less than 5 mm, replace the brush assembly.
We also check the ease of movement of the brushes.
We check the resistance of the rotor winding.
The tester readings should show infinity, otherwise there is an open circuit in the rotor winding and the rotor is replaced
Unscrew the four tie bolts
Insert a screwdriver between the covers to separate them
Remove the cover from the drive side together with the rotor
We press out the rotor from the front bearing
To replace the front rotor bearing, unscrew the four screws securing the pressure plate
Removing the plate
Press out the bearing from the cover
We press a new bearing into the cover with a mandrel of a suitable size, applying force to the outer ring.
We press the bearing from the rotor shaft using a puller
We press the new bearing onto the rotor shaft until it stops, applying force to the inner ring of the bearing
We check the absence of a short circuit between the rotor winding and the body by connecting it alternately to each slip ring and to the rotor body.
The tester should show infinity.
We assemble the generator in reverse order. We orient the covers according to the established marks.