How to dismantle the ZMZ-402 engine

After removal from the vehicle, the engine must be thoroughly washed and cleaned.

We install the engine on a test stand or support.

We prepare the necessary tools for dismantling.

During dismantling, the parts that will be reused must be marked.

The crankshaft, flywheel and clutch are balanced as an assembly, so they must not be separated.

Using a 10 mm socket, we slacken the six bolts securing the cylinder block cover and remove the cover together with its gasket.

We withdraw the oil dipstick.

Oil dipstick withdrawn from the block
The dipstick is withdrawn before the cover to avoid damaging it

Using a 12 mm spanner, we slacken the bolt of the alternator upper mounting.

Spanner on the alternator upper mounting bolt
Slackening the upper mounting allows the belt to be removed and the alternator to be swung aside

Using a 13 mm spanner, we slacken the nut securing the adjusting plate to the cylinder head.

Nut securing the adjusting plate to the cylinder head
The adjusting plate sets the alternator belt tension

We remove the plate from the cylinder head stud.

Adjusting plate removed from the stud
The plate is removed after slackening the nut

Using a 13 mm spanner, we slacken the two nuts securing the outer rocker shaft pillars.

Nuts securing the outer rocker shaft pillars
The outer pillars hold the rocker shaft at the ends

Using a 17 mm spanner, we evenly slacken and remove the four nuts securing the main rocker shaft pillars.

Nuts securing the main rocker shaft pillars
The main pillars are slackened evenly so as not to distort the shaft

We remove the rocker shaft from the studs.

Rocker shaft removed from the studs
The shaft is removed together with the rockers, without dismantling them unnecessarily

We withdraw the eight pushrods and lay them out in order so that they can be refitted in their original positions.

Eight pushrods laid out in order
The pushrods are laid out in order — on reassembly they go back in their original positions

Using a 19 mm socket, we remove the ten cylinder head securing nuts in the reverse order of tightening.

Diagram of the cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

We remove the high-tension lead terminals and unscrew the spark plugs.

We disconnect the hose from the fine fuel filter.

We disconnect from the carburettor the vacuum advance hose of the ignition distributor sensor.

Vacuum advance hose disconnected from the carburettor
The vacuum advance hose is disconnected before the cylinder head is removed

We remove the cylinder head from the cylinder block studs.

Cylinder head removed from the studs
The head is removed carefully so as not to damage the studs or the gasket

We remove the cylinder head gasket.

Cylinder head gasket
The cylinder head gasket is not reused

We turn the engine sump upwards and, using a 13 mm spanner, remove the eighteen sump securing nuts.

Shaped washers are fitted under the corner sump securing nuts.

Shaped washers under the corner sump nuts
Shaped washers are fitted only under the corner sump nuts

We remove the front and rear parts of the gasket from the sump.

Front and rear parts of the sump gasket
The front and rear parts of the gasket are removed from the sump

We remove the side parts of the gasket from the block.

Side parts of the sump gasket
The side parts of the gasket remain on the block

Sealing gaskets must not be reused.

All gaskets are supplied in repair kits.

Repair gasket kit
The gaskets are part of the repair kit and are not reused

Using a 12 mm socket with an extension, we remove the two fuel pump securing bolts.

Fuel pump securing bolts
The fuel pump is secured by two bolts

We remove the fuel pump.

Fuel pump removed from the block
The pump is removed together with its gasket

A gasket is fitted between the pump and the block.

Gasket between the fuel pump and the block
The gasket between the pump and the block is replaced on reassembly

Using a 24 mm spanner, we slacken the bolt and disconnect the pipe from the oil filter body.

Bolt securing the pipe to the oil filter body
The pipe is disconnected from the filter body with a 24 mm spanner

Using a 13 mm spanner, we remove the four oil filter securing nuts.

Oil filter securing nuts
The oil filter is secured by four nuts

We remove the oil filter.

Oil filter removed from the block
The filter is removed together with its gasket

Using a 14 mm spanner, we remove six nuts and two bolts securing the clutch housing.

Nuts and bolts securing the clutch housing
The clutch housing is secured by six nuts and two bolts

We remove the clutch housing.

Clutch housing removed from the block
The housing is removed after releasing the fastenings

Using a 24 mm spanner, we slacken and remove the oil cooler tap and the oil pipe.

Oil cooler tap and oil pipe
The tap and pipe are removed with a 24 mm spanner

Using a 12 mm spanner, we slacken the union and withdraw the oil level indicator tube.

We remove the timing gear cover. To do this:

Timing gear cover
The cover is removed after releasing the fastenings

Using a 46 mm box spanner, we slacken the starting handle dog.

Crankshaft starting handle dog
The starting handle dog is slackened with a 46 mm box spanner

Using a 12 mm socket, we remove the six pulley securing bolts.

Crankshaft pulley securing bolts
The pulley is secured by six bolts

We remove the crankshaft pulley.

Crankshaft pulley removed from the shaft
The pulley is removed after slackening the bolts

Using a three-legged puller, we draw off the pulley hub.

Puller on the pulley hub
The hub is drawn off with a three-legged puller

Using a 13 mm spanner, we remove the eight front cover securing nuts.

Front cover securing nuts
The front cover is secured by eight nuts

We remove the timing gear cover.

Timing gear cover removed from the block
The cover is removed together with its gasket

Using a 13 mm spanner, we remove the two nuts securing the tappet chamber cover.

Nuts securing the tappet chamber cover
The tappet chamber cover is secured by two nuts

We remove the tappet cover.

Tappet cover removed from the block
The cover is removed after releasing the nuts

We withdraw the eight valve tappets and mark them or lay them out in order.

Eight valve tappets withdrawn from the block
The tappets are marked or laid out in order

With a centre punch we drive out the key.

Centre punch on the crankshaft key
The key is driven out with a centre punch

We remove the oil thrower from the crankshaft.

Crankshaft oil thrower
The oil thrower is removed after withdrawing the key

Using a 12 mm socket, through the hole in the gear, we remove the thrust flange securing bolts.

Thrust flange securing bolts through the hole in the gear
The bolts are removed through the hole in the gear

We withdraw the camshaft together with its gear.

Camshaft with its gear
The shaft is withdrawn with the gear, without dismantling it

We secure the liners against falling out with suitable bushes, washers and nuts.

If the cylinder liners are not secured, they may lift under the friction of the pistons against their bores if the crankshaft is turned.

Scale particles from the water jacket will get under the liner seating flanges, and on reassembly the liners will not seat properly, leading to coolant leaking into the sump.

We turn the cylinder block over.

Cylinder block turned sump upwards
The block is turned over to access the lower assemblies

Using a 13 mm socket, we remove the two oil pump securing nuts.

Oil pump securing nuts
The oil pump is secured by two nuts

We remove the oil pump.

Oil pump removed from the block
The pump is removed together with its gasket

Using an 8 mm hex key, we remove the two nuts securing the oil seal retainer.

Oil seal retainer securing nuts
The oil seal retainer is secured by two 8 mm hex nuts

We remove the rear bearing oil seal retainer.

Rear bearing oil seal retainer
The retainer is removed after releasing the nuts

Using a 15 mm socket, we remove the two connecting rod cap nuts.

Connecting rod cap nuts
The connecting rod cap is secured by two nuts

We remove the connecting rod cap.

Connecting rod cap removed from the rod
The cap is removed after releasing the nuts

With the wooden handle of a hammer we press the piston out of the cylinder.

We also withdraw the remaining pistons.

Piston pressed out of the cylinder
The piston is pressed out with the wooden handle to avoid damaging the cylinder bore

Using a 19 mm socket, we remove the two main bearing cap securing nuts.

Main bearing cap securing nuts
The main bearing cap is secured by two nuts

We remove the main bearing cap. We also remove the remaining main bearing caps.

Main bearing cap removed from the block
The main bearing caps are removed one after another

We withdraw the crankshaft from the block.

Crankshaft withdrawn from the block
The shaft is withdrawn after removing all the main bearing caps

We slacken the device holding the liners and withdraw them. We mark the liners.

After that we wash all the parts and prepare them for fault diagnosis.