To remove the transfer gearbox, we place the vehicle on an inspection pit.
We remove the power unit protection (article — Removal of the engine protection, wheel arch liners and mudflaps).
Using a 16 mm socket with an extension, we undo the bolts securing the joint yoke of the front propeller shaft to the output shaft flange of the transfer gearbox.
Moving the propeller shaft backward, we withdraw the centring shoulder of the joint yoke flange from the output shaft flange of the transfer gearbox.
We remove the right wheel driveshaft (article — Removal and repair of the front wheel driveshafts).
Using a 13 mm socket, we undo the two bolts securing the bracket to the transfer gearbox and the two bolts securing the bracket to the cylinder block and the engine sump.
We withdraw the bolts and remove the bracket.
From the clutch housing flange side, using a 13 mm socket with a universal joint and extension, we undo the upper bolt securing the transfer gearbox to the clutch housing.
Using a 13 mm socket with an extension, we undo the upper nut of the stud securing the transfer gearbox to the clutch housing.
We undo the lower nut of the stud securing the transfer gearbox to the clutch housing and the two lower bolts.
Location of the nuts and studs securing the transfer gearbox to the clutch housing.
We move the transfer gearbox along the studs of the clutch housing.
We remove the transfer gearbox.
When installing the transfer gearbox, we orient it so that the studs of the clutch housing align with the mounting openings in the transfer gearbox housing.
Then we insert the transfer gearbox idler shaft into the splines of the differential half-shaft gear, and the drive shaft — into the splines of the differential case, and in order for the splines of both shafts to align, we turn the output and idler shafts of the transfer gearbox slightly.
Once the splines align, we push the transfer gearbox up to the stop against the clutch housing; the transfer gearbox housing will then be centred by the locating bushes pressed into the clutch housing flange.
We secure the transfer gearbox housing with three bolts and two nuts.
Then on the right side we start the two bolts securing the bracket to the transfer gearbox housing and the two special bolts securing the bracket to the cylinder block and the engine sump.
Once the bolts have been started, it is necessary to check that the bracket is in a free state.
After this, we can gradually, step by step, alternately tighten the securing bolts, while checking that there is no skewing of the bracket.
Transfer gearbox fastening tightening torques:
- bolt/nut securing the transfer gearbox to the clutch housing — 44 Nm;
- bolt securing the bracket to the engine and the transfer gearbox — 44 Nm;
- drain plug — 25 Nm.
Replacing the transfer gearbox oil seals
Replacing the transfer gearbox drive shaft oil seal
We replace the transfer gearbox drive shaft oil seal when an oil leak is detected at the joint between the transfer gearbox housing and the clutch housing.
We remove the transfer gearbox and place it on the workbench.
We raise the left side of the transfer gearbox so that, when replacing the oil seal, oil does not flow out of the transfer gearbox.
We prise out the drive shaft oil seal with a screwdriver and withdraw it from the seat in the transfer gearbox housing.
We apply a thin layer of transmission oil to the working lip of the new oil seal and press the oil seal into the seat in the transfer gearbox housing using a mandrel of a suitable size.
The oil seals of the inner CV joint of the right front wheel driveshaft and of the driven shaft can be replaced without removing the transfer gearbox from the vehicle.
Replacing the oil seals of the inner CV joint of the right front shaft and the idler shaft
To replace the oil seals, we drain the oil from the gearbox and the transfer gearbox.
We remove the right wheel driveshaft (article — Removal and repair of the front wheel driveshafts).
Using a 13 mm socket, we undo the four bolts securing the bracket and remove the bracket.
We undo the two bolts securing the bearing cover.
We prise out the bearing cover with a flat-blade screwdriver or a pry bar.
We withdraw the idler shaft as an assembly with the cover and bearing from the transfer gearbox.
We prise out with a pry bar or screwdriver the right wheel driveshaft oil seal, the oil seals of the right driveshaft and the idler shaft.
In the same way we withdraw the idler shaft oil seal.
We press in the oil seals using suitable mandrels.
We install all parts in the reverse order.
Replacing the driven shaft oil seal
We drain the oil from the transfer gearbox.
We disconnect from the driven shaft flange the flange yoke of the front cardan joint, undoing the four bolts of its securing, and move the shaft aside.
For convenience, the propeller shaft can be removed completely.
We undo the nut "А" securing the flange "Б" of the transfer gearbox driven shaft and remove the flange from the shaft shank.
We prise out with a screwdriver or wire hook and withdraw the oil seal from the transfer gearbox housing.
We lubricate the working lip of the oil seal with transmission grease and press it in with a mandrel, working lip towards the inside of the transfer gearbox.
The old oil seal can be used as a mandrel.
Replacing the idler shaft bearing
A sign of a faulty bearing is increased noise in the transfer gearbox, the appearance of knocking in the transmission.
We remove the transfer gearbox as described above.
We undo and remove, as described above, the idler shaft with the cover and bearing as an assembly.
We clamp the idler shaft with the bearing and cover as an assembly in a vice.
We withdraw the retaining ring from the groove of the bearing cover.
We install the idler shaft in the hydraulic press.
We press the shaft with the bearing out of the bearing cover.
Having clamped the idler shaft in a vice, we remove the retaining ring from the shaft groove.
We press the bearing off the idler shaft.
We clamp the idler shaft in a vice and fit the new bearing onto the shaft.
Having placed the shaft on a wooden support, we press the new bearing onto the shaft through the old bearing and a suitable mandrel.
After this, we assemble in the reverse order the idler shaft with the bearing cover and assemble all the parts.
