The car does not accelerate well
There are many reasons for the deterioration of dynamics, the main ones can be defined as follows.
Engine failure - low compression in one or more cylinders, coking in the exhaust system, or damage to the catalytic converter.
Fuel system failure - clogging of the engine fuel injectors, fuel filter, pipes and hoses of the fuel supply system. The use of low-quality fuel.
Faulty boost system - failure of the turbocharger or loose fit of the system hoses on the pipes of the intercooler or turbocharger.
Engine management system malfunction - system sensors failure
If any sensor fails, the electronic control unit switches to a backup program that allows you to get to a garage or car service, but the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.
Clutch slip due to wear or malfunction of the clutch release drive.
Brake system malfunction - braking of one or more wheels on the move, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.
Insufficient tire pressure.
Car overload.
Check and correct the air pressure in the tires.
Check the operation of the service brake system and parking brake
It is not necessary to remove the wheels for this. Find a flat section of the road and in dry, calm weather, conduct a race to determine the run-out of the car.
The car must be fully fueled, only the driver is in the cabin.
Accelerate the car to 50 km/h, level off the speed, and then disengage the gear and coast to a stop.
Perform another ride in the opposite direction. The overrun should be about 500 m.
Check clutch operation
The initial check is carried out on a flat, obstacle-free area. Set the accelerator pedal to a higher idle speed - approximately 1500 min-1.
Put the parking brake on the vehicle. Depress the clutch and engage first gear.
Then begin to slowly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls, the clutch is working properly and does not slip.
If the engine does not stall, the clutch is worn out and needs to be replaced (manual clutch adjustment is not provided in operation, wear is automatically compensated by a special device in the hydraulic drive cylinder).
Engine stalled while driving
First, find out if there is fuel in the tank.
Turn on the ignition and look at the fuel gauge.
If the orange fuel reserve light is off and the gauge needle shows fuel, it can be assumed that there is fuel in the tank.
Open the hood and carefully inspect the engine compartment.
Pay attention to the integrity of all units.
Check if all the wires are in place, if there are broken, burned, damaged insulation.
Inspect the supply line, it may be pinched or clogged (in particular, paraffin deposits, usually due to low quality diesel fuel or inconsistency with the season of operation, in this case, after the car has been parked for several hours in a warm room at an air temperature of at least +10°С the engine starts without problems).
Wax deposits usually accumulate either in the fuel filter or in the pre-filter screen in the fuel receiver module installed in the fuel tank.
Paraffin clogging of the filters can cause clogging of the nozzles as well.
Check the fuse of the injection system installed in the mounting block (article - Replacing fuses and relays GAZelle Next).
Replace blown fuse.
Inspect the expansion tank of the cooling system for leaks of coolant.
Check also the oil level in the crankcase.
If everything is in order, proceed with the engine control and power system checks described earlier.
In addition, the sudden stop of the engine and the inability to start it again can be caused by a failure of the crankshaft position sensor or disconnection of the wiring harness block from it.
Oil pressure dropped
In the instrument cluster of the GAZelle Next car there is a signal lamp for an emergency drop in engine oil pressure.
For reliable operation of the engine, it is necessary that a sufficiently high pressure is constantly provided in the engine lubrication system.
Open the hood.
Do not rush to immediately check the engine oil level, let it drain into the oil sump, this will take two to three minutes.
During this time, pay attention Carefully inspect the engine for fresh oil drips.
Look under the front part of the car - if the engine oil sump is broken, if there is an oil leak.
Pay attention to the oil filter.
Oil may leak from under the rubber gasket of the cover if it is damaged, or the filter itself if the filter is loose.
Sometimes it is enough to turn it clockwise a little.
Remove the dipstick
This is how the oil dipstick is located
Wipe the dipstick with a cleaning cloth and insert it into place
Re-remove the probe.
If the oil level borders on the lower mark or below it, top up the oil to the correct level.
Start the engine, if the warning light goes out at a normal level, you can continue driving.
If the lamp is still on, check the oil pressure sensor.
To do this, unscrew the standard oil pressure sensor and install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place.
If the pressure at the minimum idle speed is more than 25 kPa (0.25 kgf / cm2) and increases with increasing speed, the sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty.
If you do not have a pressure gauge, all that remains is to check the reliability of the contact in the block with the sensor wires or replace the sensor with a known good one.
If, after eliminating all visible causes, the oil pressure in the engine is insufficient (the emergency oil pressure drop warning light is on), diagnose and repair the engine.
Engine overheating
There is a coolant temperature gauge in the car's instrument cluster.
If the engine overheats, the pointer will move towards the red zone.
At the same time, the signal lamp for engine overheating (shown by the arrow in the photo) lights up.
At the first signs of overheating, if the arrow of the temperature gauge has gone into the red zone, but no clouds of steam escape from under the hood, turn the temperature control knob for the air entering the passenger compartment to the extreme right position, turn on the heater electric motor at maximum speed.
Let the engine run for a couple of minutes at normal idle, with the heater on full blast.
Do not stop the engine immediately! The only condition is to maintain the tightness of the cooling system.
If a hose bursts or jumps off, or another leak occurs (other than fluid ejection from under the expansion tank cap), the engine will have to be stopped immediately!
After the overheated engine stops, local overheating of the coolant begins at the points of its contact with the most heat-stressed engine parts and the formation of vapor locks. This phenomenon is called thermal shock.
Stop the engine.
Open the hood and inspect the engine compartment.
Find where the steam is coming from.
When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, the integrity of the rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat.
Never open the expansion tank cap immediately. The liquid in the cooling system is under pressure, when the plug is opened, the pressure will drop sharply, the liquid will boil, and its splashes can scald you.
If you want to open the cap of the expansion tank on a hot engine, first put a thick cleaning cloth on top and only then carefully turn the cap.
Look under the instrument panel for coolant leaks from the radiator or heater hoses.
If coolant leaks are found Well, a burst hose can be temporarily repaired with masking tape.
Reinforced (for example, silver-colored) adhesive tape, which can be purchased at car dealerships, is especially suitable for this purpose.
A radiator, thermostat or heater leak is quite difficult to fix on the spot, so in such a situation it is necessary to add water to the cooling system and carefully monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system.
Prolonged use of water instead of antifreeze leads to the formation of scale in the engine cooling system, deterioration of its cooling and, as a result, a reduction in the resource.
Never add cold water to an overheated engine. The engine must cool down with the hood open for at least 30 minutes.
If there is no coolant leak, check the integrity and tension of the accessory drive belt (article - Cummins ISF2.8 Accessory Drive Belt Replacement).
Replace a torn belt or adjust its tension.
The engine can also overheat if the thermostat fails, which controls the flow of fluid in the cooling system through or past the radiator (to speed up the warm-up of a cold engine).
To check the thermostat, on a warm engine, check the temperature of the upper hose by touch.
Check by touch the temperature of the lower hose connecting to the radiator
If the lower radiator hose is cold, the thermostat is bad and there is no circulation through the radiator.
Often the cause of engine overheating is the failure of the viscous coupling, through which the fan impeller is actuated.
Start the engine, monitor the temperature and notice if the cooling fan starts spinning when the engine overheats.
If it doesn't rotate, replace the clutch.
There are two valves installed in the plug of the expansion tank - inlet and outlet.
The exhaust valve plays a big role in ensuring optimum engine temperature.
It maintains an excess pressure of at least 0.10 MPa (1.1 kgf / cm 2) in the system, ensuring an increase in the temperature at which the coolant begins to boil and preventing intense vaporization.
When the valve is jammed in the closed position during overheating, a significant excess of overpressure occurs - more than 0.15 MPa (1.5 kgf / cm 2), which can lead to a rupture of the expansion tank or a breakdown of one of the hoses.
In turn, the jamming of the valve in the open position leads to premature boiling of the coolant.
Battery not charging
If the red low battery indicator light is on in the instrument cluster, it means that the current is not supplied from the generator to the on-board network and the battery energy is consumed.
Operating a car with a lit battery discharge warning light is unacceptable, as sometimes the cause of the light may be a short circuit in the wiring, leading to a fire in the engine compartment of the car.
Stop the vehicle, turn off the engine, and determine what is causing the light to come on.
If the cause of the malfunction was not a short circuit, and the battery was fully charged, you can drive to the garage without a generator, but it is better to try to fix the problem on the spot.
Check for a broken accessory drive belt. If the belt is intact, check its tension.
If the deflection is not correct, check the operation of the belt tensioner and, if it is in good condition, replace the belt (article - Replacing the Cummins ISF2.8 Accessory Drive Belt).
If the warning light is still on even after tensioning the belt, check if the 90 A fusible link in the fuse box located in the engine compartment on a common bracket with the electronic engine control unit has blown.
If the fusible link is blown, replace it and start the engine.
If the voltage reading on the display no longer blinks (the voltmeter needle is in the green zone of the scale, and the battery discharge warning light goes out), then the voltage is normal and you can continue driving.
If the low battery warning light does not go out, check the wire from the alternator to the "+" terminal of the battery and the fastening of the power wire to the starter.
Wires may be broken, broken inside the insulation, or have oxidized or unreliable contacts.
Fix the problem and start the engine.
If the charging current appears, you can continue driving.
If even after the measures taken, the battery discharge lamp does not go out, then the possible cause of the malfunction lies in the generator itself.
There may be several reasons, and it is better to eliminate them in a car service or garage, and you can only hope that there is enough energy in the battery to get to them.
In order to reduce current consumption when driving a car with a faulty generator, if possible, turn off the radio, unnecessary lights, heater fan, etc.
Extraneous knocks appeared
Knock of main bearings
(audible at the very bottom of the cylinder block) - very dangerous; stop the engine immediately, you will have to go to the car service or garage in tow.
A low-pitched knock that increases noticeably under load and with an increase in the crankshaft speed.
Often its appearance is accompanied by a drop in oil pressure (the emergency oil pressure drop warning light is on almost constantly).
Rattle of connecting rod bearings
(audible in the middle of the cylinder block) - very dangerous; stop the engine immediately, you will have to go to the car service or garage in tow.
The sound is rhythmic, sonorous, metallic, of medium tone. Significantly increases with increasing load and completely disappears when the fuel injector is turned off.
The sound of piston pins (audible at the top of the cylinder block) is dangerous; without loading the engine, you can drive to a car service or garage on your own.
The knock is rhythmic, high-pitched, with a sharp metallic opening, audible in all engine operating modes and intensifies with increasing engine load. Completely disappears when the fuel injector is turned off.
The sound of worn pistons and cylinders (heard in the same part of the engine as the sound of piston pins) is harmless; without heavily loading the engine, you can drive to a car service or garage on your own.
A sound like rattling pottery.
It is especially well heard on a cold engine, as it warms up it decreases or disappears.
Valve knock (heard in the upper part of the engine near the head cover) is not dangerous, you can drive to a car service or garage on your own.
Metal clatter against the background of a general muffled noise.
It is well audible at low and medium speeds of the crankshaft from the side of the cylinder head above the valve locations.
Knocks in suspension
If extraneous knocks appear in the suspension of a moving car, it is necessary to immediately establish their source, regardless of whether it is a constant knock or appears only when driving through bumps.
It is better to check the condition of the suspension by putting the car on a flyover, inspection ditch or lift, and if this is not possible, you can do this work on a free flat area, albeit with less convenience.
In any case, you will need an assistant.
Causes of knocks on the gimbalke and solutions
- Cause of malfunction
Remedy
Shock absorbers faulty:
- The bolts of the anti-roll bars of the front and rear suspensions have loosened; pillows and rubber-metal hinges of the rods are worn
Replace shock absorbers
Tighten the rod mounts; if the rubber pads are worn out, replace them
- Damage, deformation of the cushions of the upper mounts and bushings of the lower shock mounts
Replace pads and bushings with torn, cracked, or bulged rubber on one side
- Wear of ball joints and front suspension mounts
Replace ball joints and bearings
- Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings
Replace bearings
- Large wheel imbalance
Balance the wheels
- Deformation of the rim
Replace disc
- Settlement or breakage of the front suspension spring
Replace the spring
- Wear of rubber bushings in the front and rear lugs of the rear suspension springs, as well as in the frame brackets, in the holes for the pins of the spring earrings.
Replace torn or cracked bushings
- Knock from the "breakdown" of the suspension due to the destruction of the compression buffers
Replace broken buffers
- - Loosening the nuts of the stepladders for fastening the rear suspension springs.
- - Frequent “breakdowns” of the rear suspension due to rear axle overload
Tighten the nuts
Don't overload
Knocks in cardan gear
- Reason
Remedy
Knocking in the driveline during a sharp change in driving mode and when shifting gears:
- The tightening of the nuts of the four bolts of the driveline to the gearbox flange has loosened
Tighten the nuts
- The tightening of the nuts of the two bolts of the intermediate support to the frame cross member has loosened
Tighten the nuts
- Wear of bearings and trunnions of universal joints
Replace the crosses
Gimbal vibration:
- Lost balance plate
Balance the shaft
- Incorrectly assembled spline connection (marks on the parts are not aligned)
Install the parts according to the marks
- Increased runout of the sliding fork in the gearbox extension
Initially move the spline fork 180˚ and see if the runout is reduced.
If it doesn't decrease, replace the parts.
After replacing the spline fork, balance the shaft
- Wear or breakage of one of the hinges
Replace joint or driveline assembly
- Breakage or damage to the rear axle drive gear flange
Replace flange
- Bent or crumpled cardan shaft tube
Replace shaft
Increased noise in the driveline:
- Destroyed intermediate support bearing separator
Replace support assembly
Knocks in the rear axle
Reason
- Remedy
The noise (hum) of the high-volume bridge:
- Loose tightening of the drive gear flange nut
Tighten the nut
- Worn or damaged drive gear or differential bearings
Check the condition of the bearings and replace them if necessary
Ripple bridge noise:
- The tightening of the bolts of the driven gear is loose or it is installed skewed
Tighten the driven gear bolts and check for runout
High-pitched noise (howl):
- Insufficient oil level
Restore the oil level to normal
- Filled liquid oil
Change the oil (article - Checking and changing the oil in the gearbox and rear axle GAZelle Next)
- Incorrectly adjusted contact between the teeth of the final drive gears
Check the contact patch and adjust it (article - Assembly and adjustment of the Gazelle Next bridge gearbox)
- Seizures on the working surfaces of the final drive gears
Replace gears
Strong knocking in the axle during hard acceleration after coasting or when cornering:
- Strong wear of differential parts
Check the total play in the main gear and in the differential.
Replace worn parts.
Continuous thumping and crunching in the bridge:
- Wear of teeth or bearings
Replace worn parts
Vibration and bumps on the steering wheel
The cause of knocks from below can be malfunctions of not only the suspension, but also the steering of the car.
Check the steering.
- Reason
Remedy
- Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings
Replace bearings
- Loosening the nuts of fastening the ball pins of the steering rods
Tighten the nuts
- Increased clearance in the ball joints of the steering rods
Replace tie rod ends
- Loose steering gear
Tighten the steering gear
A possible cause of vibration and shock on the steering wheel is When driving at speeds above 70-80 km / h, there may be an imbalance in the front wheels.
If shock and vibration on the steering wheel appear at the moment you press the brake pedal, you need to replace the brake pads, repair or replace the front brake discs.
Brake problems
Reducing the braking efficiency of the car, skidding when braking, beating the brake pedal when braking should be a signal for an urgent brake test.
Regularly check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
The brake fluid level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the reservoir wall (approximately at the level of the reservoir connector).
The reason for the loss of braking efficiency may be the unsatisfactory operation of the vacuum booster.
For its express check, press the brake pedal several times with the engine off to remove the vacuum in the booster, and then, while holding the pedal, start the engine.
If the pedal drops a little after starting the engine, the vacuum booster is working.
If the pedal remains stationary, check the integrity and reliability of the hose connection to the check valve of the vacuum booster and to the engine vacuum pump.
Replace or repair a defective hose. If the hose is in good condition, the vacuum booster needs to be replaced.
If braking is accompanied by beating and pulsing of the brake pedal, you should first check the condition of the front disc brakes.
With the car on a jack, remove the front wheel and check the mobility of the brake pads.
To do this, try to remove the pads from the brake disc through the window in the caliper with a screwdriver.
If the pads cannot be separated, then the pads have lost their mobility in the caliper sockets or the piston in the brake cylinder is stuck.
Jamming the piston of the brake cylinder leads to constant braking of the corresponding wheel when the pedal is released, loss of directional stability and skidding of the car during braking.
After removing the upper caliper mounting bolt, tilt the caliper and check the mobility of the pads.
If they move with difficulty, clean the end surfaces of the pad bases and the slot in the pad guide from dirt and rust, ensuring completely free movement of the pads.
At the same time, check the thickness of the pad linings. If it is less than 2 mm, replace the pads.
Inspect the brake disc. The thickness of the brake disc must be at least 30 mm.
The surface of the disc must be even and smooth on both sides.
If the surface of the disc is covered with rust in places, which usually happens after a long parking of the car with dry brakes, try cleaning the working surface with a fine-grained emery cloth.
If this procedure does not help, you will have to give the discs for grinding or replace them with new ones.
If braking is accompanied by car jerks and a creak in the area of the rear wheels, the rear of the car skids during braking, check the condition of the rear wheel drum brakes.
With the car on a jack, remove the rear wheels and brake drums one by one.
Measure the diameters of their working surfaces.
The inner diameter of the drum should be no more than 283.0 mm, the working surface of the drum should be even and smooth, without ring marks and clearly visible ovality (no more than 0.5 mm, it can be determined by the unevenly worn working surface of the drum)
If the inner diameter of the drum is larger than the permissible one, the ring marks are very deep or the uneven wear of the working surface is clearly visible, the drum will have to be replaced with a new one.